In our imaginations, we picture pastéis de nata vendors (that’s Portuguese egg custard tarts, for those that don’t speak Portuguese) on nearly every street corner in Lisbon. Of course this is an exaggerated vision of reality, but we think it’s a safe bet that these tarts – with their flaky puff pastry, heavenly custard filling and light sprinkling of cinnamon – are pretty easy to come by across the country. When Joe Rocha arrived in Brisbane in 2014 he found the city’s distinct lack of authentic Portuguese tarts to be an intolerable oversight, so, like any hero would, he took it upon himself to fill the glaring pastry-sized hole in the market. Though not a baker by trade, Joe had gleaned important knowledge on the art of the tart while working as a sales manager for bakery equipment, which means he knew what gear was needed and the ingredients required – all he needed was practice. From a commercial kitchen in Wandering Cooks, Joe spent more than a year perfecting his recipe until he nailed the perfectly pliable and buttery dough required to make a real deal Portuguese tart. It was during this time that Lisboa Caffe was born. Although it started life as a humble market stall, Joe always intended to transform Lisboa Caffe into a bricks-and-mortar destination (hence the name). However, when word spread of Lisboa’s primo product, Joe rapidly cultivated a substantial wholesale portfolio (which now boasts clientele in New South Wales and Victoria), forcing him to push his cafe idea to the back burner as he moved the business into a larger kitchen geared more towards catering to bulk demand. Joe finally began scouting out suitable locations for potential shopfronts just prior to the onset of the pandemic. He struck gold in South Brisbane – the former home of Only. Specialty Coffee on Hope Street(next door to El Planta), just a short walk to Fish Lane and close to where Joe’s baking journey began at Wandering Cooks.
This week Lisboa Caffe’s slick red-and-white-coloured tart and specialty coffee dispensary officially opens to the public, giving long-time lovers of the maker’s treats a dedicated outlet to get their fix. With a fully equipped commercial kitchen tasked with the production of Lisboa Caffe’s product, Joe (alongside the team at Food Strategy and Lowry Group) has purposefully designed and outfitted the cosy space to handle the final stages of preparation, giving customers a glimpse of what Joe calls the ‘sexy’ portion of the Portuguese tart making process. The creation of the pastry dough, which is imbued with cultured butter from Pepe Saya, is created off site and stored in the dispensary’s fridges until a new batch is needed. When ready-to-serve stocks get low, the team will hand slice the dough, mould it into shape and fill it with the silky creme-brulee-like custard before popping it in the oven to cook and caramelise. Roughly 35 tarts can be whipped up in 11 minutes, meaning that every shatteringly crisp morsel is as fresh as can be. Boxes of traditional, Nutella custard, goats cheese with walnut and honey, and chicken-and-herb tarts are available, with new flavours expected to cycle through on a week-to-week basis. Mini tarts, almond tarts and sausage rolls are also on offer – all of which can be ordered to enjoy onsite (a collection of tables will soon be set up for awning-shaded snacking) or to take home. Lisboa Caffe’s red-coloured Slayer Espresso coffee machine is tasked with pouring cups of Padre brew, though hot chocolates and chai are also available for the anti-caffeine crowd.
Lisboa Caffe’s South Brisbane location will officially open to the public on Wednesday April 6. The tart maker will also continue to appear at local markets, including the Jan Powers Farmers Markets at Brisbane Powerhouse on Saturdays and the Brisbane City Markets on Wednesdays. Head to the Stumble Guide for trading hours and extra details.
