Since forming their partnership in 2011, Denis, Andrew and Paul (who combined make up DAP & Co. hospitality group) have dreamt of creating a classic steakhouse. Finding the ideal location was all that was holding them back – in the meantime opening The Gresham, Popolo and Heya Bar – and when the heritage-listed Old Mineral House became available (the former site of Restaurant Two), Walter’s Steakhouse could finally come to fruition. The charming begins when you first walk in – patrons enter through the lounge-style bar, where deep leather couches and forest green stools beckon you to linger with an aperitif in hand. The intricate timber bar is presided over by a portrait of the restaurant’s namesake, Sir Walter Hill, who curated the neighbouring City Botanic Gardens and cultivated a number of agricultural species in Queensland, including macadamia nuts, sugarcane and ginger. Although it’s very easy to while away the hours with Walter in the bar, especially when perusing bar manager Brendon Osmers’ (ex-The Gresham) menu, your curiosity will soon be piqued by what lies behind the swinging frosted-windowed doors, which lead into the main dining room.
The group has embraced the heritage bones of the building to create a space that takes inspiration from Euro brasseries and high-class New York steakhouses – think red-leather booth seating, marble tables and the warm glow of brass-bottomed lamps. That influence carries through to head chef Adam Herbert’s menu, which, as you would expect, centres around premium steak, cut and dry aged in house. Once shown to your table, you’ll be presented with freshly baked house bread and butter with Walter’s vinegar and horseradish-driven steak sauce, to be replenished throughout your meal. Steakhouse classics of oysters Rockefeller, prawn cocktail and bugs Thermidor feature as appetisers, alongside continental delights of pierogis filled with cheese and potato, and dry-aged beef tartare with cornichons, eshallot, mustard and cured egg yolk. Walter’s specialty grain-fed porterhouse is the hero of the menu, presented theatrically before diners, and can be ordered sliced for two, three or four people. If sharing isn’t your forte, there’s the 30-day dry-aged New York strip, the 200-g eye fillet, or the likes of pork loin, Atlantic salmon, and mushroom gratin. Walter’s house-ground prime beef hamburger is available until 3:00 pm, or you can enjoy it (and a selection of appetisers) in the bar until late. Sides include four kinds of potatoes, classic American-style chopped salad, beefsteak tomato and onion, and moreish creamed spinach that should not be overlooked. Be sure to ask the very knowledgeable waitstaff for their wine recommendation from the red-heavy list and finish with a slice of warm pecan pie.
Walter’s Steakhouse is open now – head to our Stumble Guide for opening hours and contact details.
