The growth of West Village’s dining offering has been a process predicated on a slow and steady build in scope. As the precinct has coalesced, the concepts opening around the hub’s open-air green spaces The Common and Mollison Park have increased in size and profile, from the initial launches of Cheeky Poké Bar and Betty’s Burgers to the arrivals of large-format eateries like Yamas Greek & Drink, Italian Street Kitchen and Picnic Cafe. West Village’s most recent culinary arrival might be its most ambitious to date – a fine-dining restaurant specialising in high-end Japanese cuisine, operated by a high-profile Sydney restaurateur. Ippin Japanese Dining, which celebrated its soft opening on Wednesday April 12, is a striking addition to the precinct, positioned on second floor of the South Pavilion overlooking The Common. Co-owned and operated by Kenny Lee, the restaurateur behind revered Sydney institutions Kuon Omakase, Allta and Funda, and Brisbane-based duo Helen Lea and Jane Ma, the 120-seat restaurant sees the team looking to raise the standard of dining – not just at West Village, but in West End overall. “West End is missing a really good Japanese restaurant, says Kenny. “We’ve been all around Brisbane to all of the benchmark Japanese restaurants and noticed there was a market for more high-end options. Initially our goal was a medium to an above-average concept, but then we decided to aim a bit higher and go for something more challenging with fine-dining Japanese.”
A restaurant with lofty culinary ambitions like Ippin requires a suitable setting. The eatery’s elevated perch creates a sense of separation from the buzz of West End below, offering an intimate (and slightly hidden) environment in which to dine. The venue’s aesthetic (crafted by Sydney interior-design firm Vie Studio) imbues quintessential elements of Japanese design into the overall interior scheme, contouring an abundance of timber and brick with high-end decorative elements like blue booths, sheer curtains, eye-catching ceiling hangings and plenty of marble. “We definitely wanted warmth in the restaurant, and a feeling of openness as well,” says Kenny, who singles out the kitchen – and the action visible within – as a highlight of the space. Ippin’s bar and kitchen (equipped with an impressive glass-encased yakitori grill) runs along one side of the restaurant’s length, offset by the seating areas, which enjoy sensational views towards the city skyline through a bank of large windows. Two intimate private-dining spaces at the restaurant’s rear – boasting seating for ten and 12, respectively – offer a cosily cloistered setting for celebratory gatherings.
Queensland seafood and meat takes centre stage at Ippin, with the restaurant’s menu – devised in collaboration with Ippin head chef Tatsuya Miwa – pairing prime locally sourced produce with imported Japanese ingredients. “The Brisbane market is totally different to the Sydney market,” says Kenny of the menu composition. “The produce you get here is different to what you can source in Sydney, so our focus is creating a menu based on what we can locally source – premium local products cooked in a Japanese way.” Until Monday April 17, guests will be able to enjoy an exclusive chef’s menu offering, which showcases a dozen of the kitchen’s best dishes. Small one-bite morsels like bluefin tuna toro-taku with sea urchin and caviar, and wagyu tartare with anchovies, oyster and chilli mustard on a crispy potato nest lead into larger dishes, including a sushi and sashimi platter (showcasing bass grouper sashimi rolls, southern calamari nigiri and mackerel ginger rolls), chawanmushi with snow crab and crab butter, and 48-hour dry-aged coral trout. Ippin’s a la carte menu will launch on Tuesday April 18, adding dishes like a chef’s selection of tempura, kingfish carpaccio, miso-marinated Glacier 51 toothfish, Robata duck breast and wagyu tenderloins with a marble score of 9+ to the mix. The restaurant’s beverage program is led by a tight selection of signature cocktails, from the floral Geisha Night (Belvedere, Cointreau, strawberry, orange mint concentrate and roses) to the citrus-laced Yuzu Whisky Sour (Suntory Toki, yuzu juice, yuzu honey concentrate). A range of Australian, French and Italian wines are on offer alongside a list of umenoyado (sake-based fruit liqueurs) and traditional sake, with most options picked based on how well it complements Ippin’s delicate fare.
Ippin Japanese Dining is now open to the public. For operating hours, menu details and booking info, head to the Stumble Guide.
